The What and Why of Sofia, Bulgaria

At a great expenditure of money and time, missionaries in this area are required to leave the country and renew their visas – some countries more often than others and using a different process.  We have seen Rostov Russia missionaries come across the border to Ukraine by train, receive a new visa stamp and return the next morning.  But that doesn’t always work. Sometimes they have been stopped at the border and our missionaries sent to pick them up have watched and waited thru the night, but still lost them.  Also laws are evolving.  Here a new law was recently passed that seemed favorable to foreign visitation at first glance, but then the law has been subjected to different interpretations by each one who administers part of the law. There is continual and ongoing assessment by church lawyers and trial of the laws by in-country attorneys.

In addition to the visa renewals there is continual “ re-registration” of each missionary with the government by landlords each  time missionaries are transferred.  This causes rent prices, already high from an “Amerikonsky” discount, to skyrocket even further. Landlords do not want to reveal their income, their business, and their personal information to the government.  Their immediate past history is too painful and real for them.  This entire process is very frustrating for those of us who work to cause all of this to reach a conclusion beneficial to missionaries and missionary work, and who work to solve all of the problems created.  One missionary serving here in the Ukraine Donetsk mission shared his experience with registration:

The Ukrainian police are out to get us.  Each time that an elder moves to a new apartment, he has to get registered to say that he is living there, so each time we have a transfer, all those missionaries have to be re-registered. Well the police in our area knew about where the missionaries are living . . .one district was having a meeting at the apartment of one of the companionships, and the police showed up, asked to see passports. Since the missionaries hadn't been registered yet, the police took their passports.  So the day after, the missionaries in my area didn't leave their apartments. The next day, Aleksay (he's basically a hero in the Donetsk mission...talked with the minister of religion and I guess straightened some stuff out, so that day we were supposed to be able to get back out on the streets at 1, but around noon, there was a knock at our door and when we tried to look out our eyehole, it had been blocked by something so we couldn't see out. So of course we didn't open it...we sat for about half an hour and then checked to see what was there, and it was a piece of putty. We called our zone leaders to let them know, and then basically they just told us to lay low again.  A couple other companionships have been putty-holed as well since then. We aren't wearing our name tags for the time being, and we aren't doing any street contacting or tracting. Basically we are just relying on appointments that we already have set up and trying to set things up using the area book. It is frustrating seeing the adversary try and keep this work from progressing, but it just strengthens my testimony that I know this area of the world is just going to grow so strong in the church...very soon...as soon as we can start wearing our name tags again.  (Elder Parker Smith)

 Well, the day after Christmas, our turn came.

We went with one other young sister and one elder from our mission then picked up two elders who drove to the airport in Kiev from the Kiev mission and later, two from Dneiperpetrosk in who flew in to join us…eight in our little group. Follow a little piece of the effort – train or bus in to Donetsk from an outlying city, other missionaries have to taxi in to pick up your companion for a “threesome” while you are gone, rent a motel or stay overnight with missionaries, early morning security and passport checks and stamps then fly out to Kiev, board a new plane with accompanying checks and stamps on your passport,  land in Vienna and stamp passports entering Austria, wait in long lines and security check again and stamp visas out of Austria, land in Sophia and stamp our visas into Bulgaria and then find our motel! Then do it all over again on the way home in a few days.

In Ukraine, missionaries are usually sent  to Bulgaria for Visa renewal.  Bulgaria is a great mission-milestone and missionaries always return happy and renewed.  We have sent many this year and when they return we always ask, “What was so good in Bulgaria?”  The answer is always, “the food”!  

The full day in Bulgaria started out with visits to special sites in the center of the city.  

Sofia, the Goddess of wisdom, after whom the city is named.

Unlike Ukraine, Bulgaria celebrates Christmas on December 25.  Sophia is full of history, a very beautiful city, even at this time of year and under a blanket of snow. 

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in Sofia, Bulgaria

We met up with the five Elders at the largest church there (after they had many breakfasts at their favorite fast food establishments). This church was built on top of old Roman and Greek cities. In fact all of Sophia is built on the ruins of ancient civilizations.  Many interesting places have been uncovered.  

We saw modern underground shops built on top of ancient ruins.

We visited many churches, a synagogue, military museums and shops.

Rotonda of St. George

In front of the Archaeologic Museum is the administrative quarters of Bulgaria's President.  Amazingly uniformed guards of honor stand at the outside entrance and a formal changing of the guard takes place once every hour.

 St. Sofia is the church in whose honor the city was renamed in the 14th century.  This church was built during the reign of the Byzantine Emperor, Justinian between 527-565.  Glass panels in the floor allow visitors to view excavations of early Christian catacombs.

We saw the Banya Bashi Mosque built in 1576 during the time of the Ottomans.  The Sofia Synagogue, pictured above and below, was completed in 1909.

Early in the day a 21 year old man named Todor heard us speaking English and started to visit with the Elders.  He could speak very good English and wore a fedora hat like Frank Sinatra.  His favorite singer, however, is not Sinatra, but Bobby Darin.  We gradually discovered that he knew Bulgarian history extremely well, including details of every site we visited.  We also discovered he knew more about U.S. History and Presidents, and wars, and generals and movies than all the other eight of us put together. The day was very fulfilling to all of us.  He wanted to speak English and talk about the history he loved so well and we needed to be shown around and taught about Bulgaria.  So, we had a guide for the entire day.

About noon the young missionaries separated from us to continue to gorge themselves in every fast food place they could find. (Other missionaries had given them maps with all the Dunkin' Donuts, Subways, Burger Kings and KFCs).

Todor stayed with us to help us see more and visit more, and so we became quite well acquainted.  It was rewarding all around when Todor discovered that he had established a connection with someone who could "talk-tank" with him.  One of his hobbies is constructing acurate minitures of various army tanks.

The military museum opened a window to another facet of the history of Bulgaria.

We treated Todor to a lunch at KFC. By evening the conversation began to lead into thoughts about the gospel. This young man is a translator for Mitsubishi, translating Japanese texts into English and he has been several times to Japan.  We found out that he has played basketball with other missionaries, has a Japanese Book of Mormon and would really like to have one in Bulgarian also.  Sister Hatch called the local mission and found two missionaries who could join us for dinner.  They just happened to bring a Bulgarian Book of Mormon. Tudor and Elder Brinkerhoff hit it off very well.  The evening ended with an appointment for discussions, a committment to meet at the upcoming young adult activity and an invitation to come to spend a week with us in California to “see” first hand the American history he loves so much. He might also take in a Star Wars convention or something as he is a real “Treky”.

A last comment on Bulgaria.  Was it the food that made Sofia memorable?  We concluded, “Not.”  We agree with Elder Smith's assessment:

Well, I made it back safely from my mini-vacation to Bulgaria, and I now have my renewed visa which allows me to stay here in Ukraine for another year to keep doing the Lord's work. I assume some of you might be wondering what Bulgaria was like … It was all so beautiful (especially those times we got to sit down in familiar restaurants such as Subway and Pizza Hut). At night while sitting in our apartment (nicer than any one that Elders have in this mission), we decided it would be for the best if we talked about the things that Ukraine has that Bulgaria doesn't. We came up with a few things, such as shoehorns (a necessity in Ukraine), nice ties, and the Russian language. As far as cleanliness and friendliness are concerned, though, I think Bulgaria has us beat.  (Elder Parker Smith)

Sofia presented many interesting and enjoyable things but we have to agree with Elder Smith, it was the happiness- the smiles – and attitude the people communicated while we were there.  We think that is why missionaries return to Ukraine renewed. We did too.



HOW WONDERFUL YOUR TITHES AND OFFERINGS!

Wheel chairs hold a special place in our hearts...especially "Nimbus 2000".  They can mark the beginning of a new life.  They can be wings beneath ones feet; they can open a whole new world.

Last week, deserving people in this little city of Lugansk (1/2 million) were the recipiant of 270 wheel chairs ...ALL from donations to the Church by people like you. Even little donations added together can go out into the world and "go about doing good"!  The Church provided the wheel chairs and training; then partnered with a high school for young people with special needs and volunteers from Red Cross, veterans and other charitable organizations.  Two days of amazing coordination unfolded as the wheel chairs were assembled and volunteers were taught how to" fit" each chair to it's new owner (so critical). Then those in the school receiving a chair were fitted and given a "new life".  It was a blessing to watch... especially their faces. The rest of the equipment will be given out and fitted later at different locations because each chair had a designated owner before it arrived in Ukraine.

The four young missionaries serving here were not involved in the fitting quite so much but their presence and assistance was necessary,  so that all involved would relate this wonderful gift to the name tags they wore. 

There were questions by the press; the branch president with his wife and Sister Lubov were also present for the ceremonies and we were all introduced several times. The school and all the officials were full of gratitude.

After the last ceremony the school principal invited us to attend a school play being presented that afternoon.  It was a Ukranian "fairy tale" about a Tzar who was trying to marry his daughter off to a rich important man instead of the young man she loved. Very fascinating. Everything was done by these special students.  Some of the humor is a little different from what we are used to, but it was very enjoyable. 

Young people ages 13 to 18 go to this school which is to prepare them to be self sufficient.  Some make shoes, some learn computer skills, some draw, paint or make crafts to sell.

There are at least five large shipping containers of clothing from Salt Lake City going through customs right now and we will be presenting them in the next few months.  Doesn't it make you feel good to be part of all this happiness?

HEAVY HEARTS AND HAPPY HEARTS

We have been living in a whirlwind these past four weeks. Four weeks ago we moved all of our household goods to Lugansk, a city about three hours from Donetsk and about ten minutes from the Russian border.  The address of our new apartment is on Soviet street and the address of our church house is Karl Marx street.  We did not sleep in Lugansk though, but traveled back to Donetsk for some mission business and we have been camping ever since.  We had paid our Donetsk apartment thru the end of December so we have experienced " hotel-like" living as we traveled back and forth and to and from.  We traveled to Mariupol, Makeevka, Obyedeoni, Petrovsky and Gorlovka for apartment checks.  Then back to Lugansk where we prepared, then traveled back to Donetsk to be ready to go fly to Bulgaria, which was then postponed.  We spent another two nights in Donetsk to attend a Zone conference with a visiting Seventy, so we have had limited access to things like clothes and dishes and food and computers, not being really settled anywhere.

But the hardest part of all was leaving all of our friends in this transfer...
a very typical missionary problem. 

Will those who were baptized stay active? Will the investigators keep coming to church now we are gone?  Will Michael be baptized?  And what about Anya.  She loves Mom so much, she has suggested that she would like to come clear out to Lugansk to visit.  We know that we must move on and trust the eternal welfare of these "close as family" friends to local leaders...but do they understand how important it is for every new convert to feel an important part of building the kingdom?  Do the members understand how critical it is for every new convert and investigator to be surrounded with new and true friends?  These concerns are the cause of heavy hearts. Who will hold family home evenings? Who will attend both branches to watch for and reach out to strengthen each of these fragile new testimonies every Sunday? We have spent alot of time committing members to watch over each of our friends...because they will remain and we must go.

Ani and Ashot brought their little pug -- their only "child" -- to see us off the day we left Donetsk.

Paul and Julia got married and moved to Kiev.  He is still playing soccer and they are active.  Ani and Ashot are happy and fun and help alot with other new members and investigators. Ashot is practicing his guitar to present a special family home evening "first" performance for us when we return in February.  One of his side-businesses is building leggo creations and selling them on the internet.  And then there is our Chidi. A life so much in the dark and now in the extreme light.  Oh, that you could have watched the change!  Oh, that you could see his face as he first contemplated the new idea that HE could be a missionary. We got him outfitted with new clothes and he is now serving as a "short term" missionary up in Sumy.  He is so happy and proud to wear a name tag.  We helped him fill out an application to become a full time missionary and all of his "big family" are anxiously awaiting his call.

We invite you to rejoice with us this Christmas over what Jesus Christ has done and is doing for us!

Christmas in Lugansk

We have been transferred from the city of Donetsk to Lugansk which is three hours to the northeast of our former home and is a fifteen minute drive from the Russian border.  Our first contact with members of the branch there was on Christmas Eve when we attended their Christmas celebration.  The guest of honor was Dedushka Moroz or in English, Grandfather Frost with the Snow Maiden, or Snegdevachka.  Grandfather Frost is the kind legend who brings gifts to good Ukrainian boys and girls.  Unlike Santa, Grandfather Frost does not come secretively at night with gifts, but he visits children and delivers the gifts personally, asking each one telling questions, the answers to which will let him know which children are really deserving of the gifts he brings.  No gift is given until the receiver first earns it by reciting a verse or singing a song.

  

 Most of the time, Grandfather Frost wears a long, blue, fur-trimmed robe and his gifts are presented on New Year's Eve, which is a much more important celebration in Ukraine than Christmas. Only occasionally are gifts left under the New Year's tree, or yeolka.

Before gifts were distributed, Grandfather Frost played his accordian, leading singing of traditional Ukrainian carols.  Then children who felt deserving of being gifted, each in turn gave a song, a verse or other demonstration of merit.  

After Grandfather Frost and Snow Maiden left, everyone

gathered round tables to make greetings cards on which 

each wrote a holiday message to give to another person.

Members of the church in Ukraine have worked quite successfully at integrating old Ukrainian traditions with a Christian Christmas celebration.  Children from the primary acted out the story of the birth of Christ from the book of Luke (20 month old is the star over Bethlehem -- see her head-gear)

and the four missionaries who are serving in Lugansk

represented four prophets who fortold Christ's birth:

 Isaiah, King Benjamin, Abinadi and Nephi..

Christmas Day we spoke in church.  Using our very best Russian, we testified of  Jesus Christ and his love for us.  Elder Hatch shared his experience with the Saints in the leper colony of  Kalapapa, Hawaii to explain the value and reality of the atonement of Christ.  We know that our words were not perfect, but the spirit carried the message to the hearts of those who had come to be filled.

 After Church on Christmas Day, Elders Solin, Porter,

Efoshkin and Groothuyzen joined us for a holiday dinner.

Then later, each scheduled time to call home and family using our internet. 

This Christmas in Ukraine we missed our own family more than we can say,

but our hearts were filled and our spirits were lifted

by the love, service and testimonies that surround us here in Lugansk, Ukraine.

Christmas is coming to Ukraine

Perhaps to you we look like a couple of Ukranians -- not to the natives. 

We only have to step into a restraurant and we are given English menus before we have uttered a single word.

 

It appears as if we are walking through a Christmas tree lot, but actually this is just a sidewalk along Bogdana Khmelnitzkogo Oolitza.  About the second week in December all of the little florist stands lining the sidewalks begin to sprout evergreens.

We miss the festive street lighting and decorations of home.  That is not something we have seen here, but the Donetsk merchants do light up their windows and store fronts. 

We will not spend Christmas in Donetsk, though.  We have moved from Donetsk to Lugansk.

(More about that later.)

It has been a long, drawn-out move . . . but at last we are getting settled in our new apartment.

It is (finally) beginning to look a lot like Christmas.

Here in Lugansk we made an amazing discovery, and we will share if you promise not to spread the word. 

Right in the building where we live we found a very famous character!

I ran across him quite unexpectedly, looking over his list and checking off naughty and nice!  At first I didn't really believe my eyes.  I mean, it couldn't really be . . . could it????  Then he looked up at me .... and I just knew!!

(Remember.  You must not tell.)

Where have the years gone?

25 November 1968

Logan, Utah, USA

25 November 2011

Donetsk, Ukraine

Forty three years . . . forty three roses.

Oh, that every young girl would be blessed with such a man.

Giving Thanks in Ukraine

Turkeys here in Ukraine are as scarce as hen's teeth!   It took much work and research to locate one. 

We were blessed through a good friend in Makeevka branch who has a "Dacha" (summer place outside of the city) where he keeps a garden and raises rabbits and geese.  He first offered us rabbits . . . or a goose or two.  Then he remembered his neighbor's turkeys and a sale was finalized at 1000 UAH for three twenty pound birds which we calculated would feed the thirty missionaries serving in Donetsk City.  We waited with anxiety, not knowing what would be delivered on the promised Wednesday morning. 

 Brat "V" did his best.  Unable to acquire the promised three birds, he continued to research in our behalf with a guarantee that the sun would not go down on Wednesday without sufficient poundage of poultry in our qvartera (apartment).  The neighbor had no twenty pound birds, so Brat "V" did the next-best thing, delivering, late Wednesday afternoon, one seventeen pound turkey and one forty-three pounder--thankfully "bez" heads, feet and entrails. 

You just never know when the past years of life experience will become valuable. We had no idea, back in our turkey raising years, that all of the experiments with bird-relaxation techniques and tenderization research would pay off years later for Thanksgiving dinner in Ukraine.  We determined that a brine marinade would be necessary to ensure that our newly-plucked guest might present his best self at dinner the next day.  We were able to cram the little guy into our plastic-bag-lined stock pot after a good salt-rub, then we filled the bag with soy sauce, lemon-lime soda and cooking oil.

It was the monster-bird that created problems, the first of which was finding a container sufficiently large in which to marinate the thing.  We finally had to resort to sterilizing our largest kitchen wastebasket which we then lined with plastic and we lowered into it our marinating bag filled with one huge turkey.  Have you ever hefted a forty-three pound turkey?  It is not just the forty-three pounds that create a difficult situation.  The weight problem is exasperated by the slippery nature of the subject.  After a great deal of cooperative-problem solving and teamwork, Thursday's dinner was wedged into it's new repository where it would spend the night. 

The next problem related to roasting a 43 lb. turkey for Thanksgiving dinner in Ukraine (or roasting any turkey in Ukraine, for that matter) is the much too obvious absence of a roasting pan of any sort or size, and after that, the 12"x12"ovens and the aluminum foil available only in paper-thin 10"widths.  Our large turkey would not fit into our oven so we cut it half.  We cooked one half and used the ovens in the two missionary homes closest to us to cook the others.

Because a "mission activity" had not been calendared or planned for Thanksgiving, we, (Mom and Dad), planned and provided this celebration for our local missionaries and it was worth all the effort.  We had one distict help focus our spirits for our Thanksgiving Day prayer by standing one at a time and solomnly reading a short line from a hymn like "How Great Thou Art" or short quotes from people like: Ammon, "missionary" or Benjamin, "prophet and king" or Lincoln, "United States president".  Everyone sat and contemplated the blessings of home and loved ones and the tender mercies of God towards them. It did all we had hoped it would.

The dinner was wonderful!  The elders and sisters were filled.

Besides the missionaries we invited some very close friends that have made our stay here in Donetsk much more gratifying.  We introduced them as the "reasons"  why we are here, serving the Lord in this place. They represent the past present and future of missionary work in Ukraine. The husband of Lydia, our cook, was the first branch president in Donetsk. Vladimir, our driver is the branch president of Makeevka branch and Sister Vilikonova is a true christian. They found the gospel when the accepted a pamphlet offered by elders on the street and have embraced it with all their hearts.  Their son Max will grow up to become a missionary .  Our special Ukranian guests enjoyed our celebration and commented on the beautiful spirit of our wonderful American Thanksgiving holiday.

Every missionary companionship brought a dessert. Pies came in every kind of container and quality. Sisters decorated and elders carved.  We ended our dinner with a prayer of Thanksgiving and commitment.  We told each zone leader that after the closing prayer we wanted the place to look like those cartoons where everyone dashes out of a room leaving only a few papers floating to the ground.  This is not a holiday here, and our missionaries needed to show their thankfulness by deed.  As always it was the Vilikanovs who helped us clean up.

We were surprised that so many of our missionaries said this was the greatest Thanksgiving they had ever had.  And for once there was more food than even missionaries could eat!